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I’ve played golf in some spectacular places. The highlands of Scotland, through vineyards in Mallorca and even in the hills overlooking the Vatican. When it comes to dramatic settings, however, all of these venues pale into insignificance when compared to Khao Yai.
Located a three-hour drive north of Thailand’s capital city, Bangkok, Khao Yai Country Club is hidden away amongst the south east Asian giant’s most prominent national park.
This national park is home to elephants, the national animal of Thailand, various species of monkey, and even some bears.
But, as you make the turn into the gates of Khao Yai, you’d be mistaken for thinking that the next animal you’re going to see is pre-historic.
Jack Nicklaus is credited as the designer of this 18-hole golf course and while I’m not sure at what point the legendary American was consulted, I wouldn’t have blamed him for taking one look at the landscape here and declaring that building a golf course simply isn’t possible.
Mountains, which were obscured by low hanging clouds on the day we played, tower over Khao Yai Country Club. On those mountains is the densest expanse of trees I’ve ever seen. I cannot imagine how challenging it must have been to carve out a championship golf course from this jungle setting.
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While I’m not sure how the golf course itself came to be here, I had my doubts whether our round would happen too. As our clubs were unloaded by our caddies, torrential rain battered down from the sky. After all, it was rainy season in Thailand, and it looked like our third round of the trip might be off.
But, buoyed by two local playing partners and caddies, all of whom were optimistic the rain would subside, we went to the first tee to start what is a round I will probably never forget.
On this trip, I was joined by James Nursey, a journalist from England, and we were being shown around by a member of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Chatree.
Chatree told us that we would be joined by one of his friends in this round, to make up a ‘Thailand v Rest of the World’ match. Chatree’s friend was called Ton. Ton was, as far as I can tell, a professional golf course gambler. Decked out in his Mizuno shoes, Liverpool FC socks and floral PXG hat, I knew on the first tee, as he pulled out his trusty TaylorMade Burner Superfast driver, that I was destined to be handing over 500 Baht in a few hours’ time.
Khao Yai Golf Course Review
The first hole is perhaps the most unassuming on the golf course. After that short par-4, it’s a lengthy drive to a spectacular risk-reward par-5 and that’s where Khao Yai really gets going. For most, a ball hit with driver is going to find the water which splits two fairways on this potential card-wrecker.
The next par-5 comes at the fifth and it’s another brilliant hole. As you wind your way through the jungle, there’s a stark reminder beside the fairway of where you are in the world, as footprints of an elephant run through the semi-rough. Sadly, we never saw the culprit for these prints. Despite their size, elephants are apparently very shy creatures.
As you settle into your round, the eerie stillness of the air is noticeable. As I was sitting in the cart, away from playing partners, the only thing I could hear was the drizzle of the rain on the path and the occasional screech of a monkey. Twilight jungle golf was certainly something I could get used to.
However, the noise of celebration from my Thai opponents, who had just gone three up in our hotly contested match, was enough to bring me back to earth.
The par-3 eighth is the next hole which sticks in the mind. It’s the closest you get to the largest mountain that casts a shadow over the front nine, and the short par-3, going by its yardage, should be straightforward. However, water that runs alongside the right of the hole, which I very nearly found, focusses the eye. Luckily for me, the rain, which was starting to subside, had softened the ground, stopping my ball from finding the hazard, and I was able to scramble a par.
Grain is something you need to contend with here. It was a phenomenon I had never experienced before and it certainly made putting, something which I make difficult as it is, even harder. On some occasions, my ball seemed to defy physics as it carried on straight, despite rolling along a severe slope.
Those greens are not the most manicured that we played. Apparently, the course has changed hands several times, and maintenance standards have slipped over the years. But, being a little rough around the edges just seems right for a course that feels like it’s in Jurassic Park.
This evening it was twilight jungle golf at Khao Yai. Not sure I’ve ever played in more spectacular scenery. You can hear the screeches of monkeys and see the footprints of Elephants as you play between rural Thailand’s mountains. Incredible experience. pic.twitter.com/MLp9yJKuQ1
— Lewis Fraser (@lewisfras98) September 20, 2024
After nine holes, it was clear that we were going to be fighting darkness. So, our caddies drove us to the furthest point on the course, to get away from other groups. This took us to the par-3 15th, which once again, makes you feel like you’re miles away from civilisation.
That hole was where I made my first birdie of the day, which we were playing as the tenth. It’s a fairly straightforward par-3, which makes way for a stunning closing stretch of holes.
The 18th in particular is top class. A lengthy par-5 that plays uphill, is flanked on the left by dense jungle. The prospect of sending my ball here to spend the rest of its days sent me right, finding some of the most dense rough on the course. From here, reaching the green in three was virtually impossible. It’s a brilliant closing hole, but we still had some way to go at Khao Yai, and in our match, which the Thai contingent had been winning since the get-go.
Our re-routed layout worked well, as the 18th green sits beside the tenth tee. The tenth is probably the most demanding hole relative to par on the course, a long and tough par-4. It’s followed by another spectacular par-3, which demands a well struck long iron over water. I obliged but, once again, severe grain had what looked like a short and straight birdie putt take an inexplicable dive away from the hole.
The par-5 12th is another standout hole. A straight and powerful drive is required in order to navigate the dog-leg you’re faced with on your second shot. If you have it in the locker, a high fade is perfect to try and get home in two, but even if you’re forced to lay-up, you’ll be hard pressed to avoid a bunker, which is what I ended up finding.
A note on the bunkers here, they’re packed with solid, compact sand, which is in contrast to some of the softer, more fluffy lies you’ll get in other Thai resorts. You’ll certainly need to adjust your style, as using the bounce on your wedge might result in a knife over the back of the green.
By the time we reached the final tee box of our round, it was pitch black. In this part of the world, darkness comes suddenly. It was like a duvet had been thrown over the mountains that already cast a shadow over the whole place.
Any other time, it would have been time to call it a night. And with Team Thailand one hole to the good, Chatree offered a friendly half. Ton, however, was having none of that, and so it was time for some night golf. Of course, playing in the dark is where local knowledge comes into play, and 500 Baht was heading the way of our hosts.
In the end, I was more than happy to pay Ton, because the experience of playing here was remarkable. Something about the golf course at Khao Yai really struck a chord with me. This is golf at its most pure. It might be a strange comparison to make, but the mountainous backdrop reminded me of Corrie in Arran, just on a much grander scale. Peace is only broken by the wildlife that hides away in the mountains, while the test of golf is demanding. Khao Yai truly is a remarkable setting for golf and you’re heading to this part of Thailand, you need to make time to play it.
It might not be the most manicured course in the country, and it might not host any professional events anytime soon, but out of the four rounds I played in Thailand, this is the one that will stick in my mind the most.
For more information on tourism in Thailand, head to tourismthailand.org.
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