Golf in Edinburgh and the Lothians: A visitor’s guide

There are few places on earth with so many outstanding golf courses packed into such a small area than the Lothians.  

From Bathgate in the west to Berwick in the east, this region is full to the brim with world class golf courses. Keep reading if you want to know where to go to get the best out of your journey. 

East Lothian is known as Scotland’s Golf Coast and it’s easy to see why. It’s one of the most popular golf destinations in the world, let alone Scotland.

Muirfield is the most famous of its numerous venues, but there’s also Gullane, Archerfield, Renaissance, North Berwick… you catch our drift. But there’s plenty more to tickle your fancy if you dig a little deeper. If you head inland, there’s West Lothian, which is home to some lesser known but hugely enjoyable courses, as well as the offerings in Scotland’s capital.  

The Royal Burgess Golfing Society of Edinburgh is recognised as the oldest club in the world, and there are also some great options if you’re on a budget. 

In total, there are more than 60 courses packed into this relatively small piece of land in the east of Scotland, all within striking distance of Scotland’s capital city, Edinburgh.

That proximity makes it the perfect place to base yourself, and you’ll get the details on where to head for entertainment in this feature. Whether you want luxury or budget offerings, we’ve got you covered...

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Go-to venues 

Muirfield 

Par 71, Yards 7,245 

Home to the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, R&A chief Martin Slumbers hails Muirfield as “the finest links we have”, and who are we to argue. You don’t host 16 Opens without being an absolutely world-class course. Legends of the game have lifted the Claret Jug in front of the clubhouse, while it’s also made huge strides towards being more inclusive, including hosting the AIG Women’s Open in 2022. If you can get a game here, then you absolutely must make the journey to play it. It’s truly world class. 

muirfield.org.uk 

Gullane 

Par 71, Yards 6,873 (Course No. 1)  

Gullane would be the outstanding venue in just about any other region in the world. However, Muirfield is at the other end of the street. With not one but three top-quality courses, Gullane is an incredible place to play golf, affording stunning views over the Firth of Forth towards Fife and back up the coast towards Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh. The quality of the golf courses is right up there too, with No.1 hosting the Scottish Open twice in the last decade. If you can, make a day of it and play two or even three of the courses in the same day. 

gullanegolfclub.co.uk 

North Berwick 

Par 71, Yards 6,551  

Only St Andrews has a golf club which has played continuously over the same course for a longer period than North Berwick. Housed at the West Links in the shadow of Berwick Law since 1832, it’s an absolute star turn and like Gullane, would be held in higher esteem were it not neighboured by 20 other incredible courses. So good is it that PGA Tour star Max Homa headed out for 18 holes between rounds at the Scottish Open in 2022. It’s hosted Final Qualifying for the Open, as well as the men’s and women’s Amateur Championships. 

northberwickgolfclub.com 

Luffness New 

Par 70, Yards 6,581 

Set in a stretch of some of the best courses in the country, Luffness New is one of the most historic stretches of land you can play golf on. This course might not test you with the things that make modern courses difficult, but when the wind blows, as it often does, there’s not many places more challenging. The club was established in 1894, but golf was being played here long before that. If you can, make sure you fit a round in here, and take time to appreciate the history that surrounds one of the Lothians’ finest, most renowned clubs. 

luffnessnew.com 

The Renaissance  

Par 71, Yards 7,303 

Host to the Genesis Scottish Open, Renaissance is a modern links course that takes the best of modern engineering and the best of Scottish links layouts, combining them for a superb experience. The club opened in April 2008 and has since built up a reputation as one of the best in an area packed with unbelievable golf. If you get the chance to play here, you’ll be treated like royalty, with some of the most luxurious facilities in the country. The highlight comes at the 13th, where you tee off beside the Firth of Forth and play along the coast. 

trcaa.com 

Longniddry  

Par 68 Yards 6,260 

Longniddry is the closest links course to Edinburgh and is a stunning test. Designed by the legendary Harry Colt, it’s not the longest you’ll find, but it’s one of the most enjoyable, thanks to the variety on offer. While it might look straightforward, huge fairways and greens are guarded by gorse bushes and bunkers dotted through the course. While there’s no par-5s from the back tees here, there’s several par-4s over 400 yards, and if they play into the wind from the Forth, they are no pushovers. If you’re looking for a classic links test, put this on your list. 

longniddrygolfclub.co.uk 

Edinburgh Leisure 

Six courses! 

If you’re looking for a course that’s going to be affordable, while still providing you with a great day out, Edinburgh Leisure have you covered. Portobello, Silverknowes, Craigentinny, Carricknowe, Braid Hills and the Wee Braids are all under their banner and are all ideal for a day out. Craigentinny, pictured, features stunning views over Arthur’s Seat, while Silverknowes is a seaside course between Edinburgh and Queensferry. In Edinburgh’s centre, Braid Hills features a great course and a driving range for you to tune up your game. 

edinburghleisure.co.uk 

Dunbar 

Par 71, Yards 6,597 

A course that starts with two par-5s, Dunbar’s superb course is packed into a small piece of land, but packs a serious punch. Golf has been played here since the 1850s, and there will soon be big changes to the Lothians club, as plans for a new clubhouse are about to be put into action. For now, the current clubhouse is a great spot to enjoy a pre or post round drink, while looking over the Forth. The stretch of holes along the water here are some of the finest in the region and worth the journey alone. It’s a truly special venue, one to savour. 

dunbargolfclub.com 

Archerfield 

Par 72, Yards 6,942 (Fidra) 

Home to two stunning modern links courses, Archerfield Links is an up-market club that will have you feeling at home. With the Fidra and Dirleton both providing exceptional quality in an area littered with great courses, it’s no surprise that these are both rated so highly despite being newcomers to the region. Although it’s quite an exclusive club, visitors have the opportunity to be a member for the day in their membership experience, where you’ll get to enjoy some of the best facilities and golf courses in the country. 

archerfieldgolfclub.com 

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Notable mentions 

Turnhouse  

Beside Edinburgh Airport, Turnhouse is a brilliant example of parkland golf in the Lothians from just £30. With stunning views, it’s a gently undulating course with loads of variety throughout. More info

Duddingston 

A stone’s throw from Arthur’s Seat, Duddingston is one of the best about. From £50 (twilight May – Sept), it offers views of Holyrood Park and meanders around Braid Burn, which cuts across several holes. More info

Kilspindie  

Kilspindie is a historic club with rounds starting from £75. They even offer the chance to play the course with hickory clubs, to enjoy their links the way it was originally intended. Superb fun. More info

Niddry Castle  

Niddry Castle expanded to 18 holes in 2003, and is a fantastic venue. Routed around the historic Niddry Castle, you’ll enjoy a relaxed atmosphere with green fees from £16. More info

Melville Golf Centre  

Home to a superb driving range and nine-hole course, Melville Golf Centre is the ideal place to get your game in shape. It’s ideally placed beside Edinburgh for your last-minute practice. More info

Kingsfield Golf & Leisure  

Kingsfield is a great spot. Home to an award winning nine-hole course, a family putting green, a short game area, 20-bay driving range, and a state-of-the-art indoor facilities. More info

Royal Musselburgh  

The first stop on Scotland’s Golf Coast, Royal Musselburgh is a contrast to its links neighbours. With huge fairways and greens, as well as mature woodland, it’s a great parkland test. More info   

Castle Park  

Another that offers an alternative to the links of the Lothians, with an undulating parkland layout. It’s one of the fastest growing courses in Scotland, and when you visit, you’ll see why. More info

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Where to stay 

If you’re planning on travelling about a bit, basing yourself in Edinburgh is the obvious choice. There’s the legendary Balmoral (roccofortehotels.com) if you want total luxury, while there are plenty of budget options from the usual chains from around £50. East Lothian is also a tremendous option, with the Duck’s Inn in Aberlady (ducks.co.uk), above, offering nights from £60, as well as stay-and-play package deals. For those with a bigger budget, try Archerfield House (archerfieldhouse.com). 

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Where to eat 

The Waterside Bistro in Haddington (watersidebistro.co.uk) is the best according to numerous reviews on Google, and we certainly won’t be arguing with their assessment. In North Berwick, you’ll want to make time for an Italian at Osteria (osteria-no1.co.uk). If you’re in Edinburgh and you’re after a curry, we recommend The Prahna (theprahna.co.uk), while The Outsider (theoutsiderrestaurant.com) is also well worth a visit if you’re hungry in the capital. 

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Things to see and do 

Edinburgh and the surrounding area is arguably the most popular tourist destination, so there’s plenty to be doing off the golf course. Take in the castle, then wander down the Royal Mile and into the city centre. If you’re into your whisky, then spend some time at Glenkinchie Distillery, where the world famous Edinburgh Malt is made. If you’re in the city at the time of the Tattoo or festival they are worth a visit (although it will be extremely busy), while the Grassmarket or George Street are great for a few drinks. 

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Getting about  

Getting around the Lothians is fairly easy – it’s served by Edinburgh Airport, which is ideally located for the M8 and M9 motorways. From there you can access the city bypass which takes you to East Lothian. Train is also a good option, with Edinburgh Waverley and Dunbar served by LNER and CrossCountry as well as Scotrail, which also operates services stopping at Longniddry and Drem. The Lothian bus network is also one of Scotland’s better offerings, particularly in Edinburgh where it is publicly-owned and council-run.